The main objective of eye makeup is to accentuate and define the eyes. As a make-up artist you must consider accentuating eye shape and colour. Today I will deal with eye colour, accentuating different eye shapes is a whole other day’s work…or weeks!
When choosing colours for a clients eye make-up it’s important to consider eye colour. You should also consider attire, hair, purposes of make-up(is it for an event, photoshoot etc) as well.
Green: Violet and plum shades are great for green eyes. Here are some other shades that look great with green eyes: bronze, gold, copper, deep greens deep purples, mauves, peaches and apricots, lilacs, and medium pinks are good choices. Avoid very cool shades like silvers, blues, pastels and whites. For highlighting the brow bone avoid white, it will look cheap with green eyes, try peach, taupe or apricot instead.
Brown: Brown eyes are the easiest to compliment. Eyeshadows that look tacky on other eye colours are much easier for brown eyed people to wear. Some shades that compliment brown eyes: Purples, pinks, blues, grays greens, golds, browns. Blue is going to look fantastic with brown eyes, cooler tones contrast well with brown eyes and make them stand out. Also, earthy colors look great with brown eyes.
Blue / Gray: Contrasting shades in the brown, rose and violet families bring out blue eyes. Other shades; soft peaches, lavender, lilac, fuchsia, rich browns, golds and warm taupes. Using shades darker in tone than that of the natural eye color works very well.
Hazel: Hazel eyes stand out with deep greens, lavenders and shades with soft ochre undertones. To bring out the gold flecks in eyes, choose golden based shadows. To bring out the green specks in eyes choose a brighter green shade like emerald in three different intensities. To bring out the blue specks in eyes use purple in three different shades. To highlight the brown base of hazel eyes use natural shades of brown. Colours like pale pink and light purple also look great with hazel eyes.
Many people have flecks or pools of other colours aside from their dominant eye colour. To deal with this I would suggest deciding which colour in their eyes you are trying to bring out, usually the dominant colour. For example, if the client has green eyes with flecks of brown, you may choose colours to accentuate the green only or vice versa. Trying to bring out 2 colours in the eyes is a little counter productive as it could have a neutralising effect rather than accentuating the eye. Of course, this really depends on the client. Very often what you learn in make-up courses and make-up books teach you something a particular way and when you are practicing you need to make quick judgement calls.
Don’t forget to check out the rest of the Make-Up Artist Series. Tomorrow,