When I started out in make-up the only adhesive I had to my name was Duo. While it’s great for eyelashes and latex it’s not really an all round adhesive. I have since explored other types and have found that they each have their strengths and drawbacks. So if you were wondering what adhesives to buy for your kit or are unsure about the one to choose to meet the requirements of the job at hand here is a little information on the types of adhesives used by artists and what they actually stick.
Duo – Sticks latex. Great as an eyelash glue. It can also be used to blend the edges of prosthetic pieces made from latex.
ProsAide – This sticks latex only. However, it can be mixed with water and used as a sealer on foam pieces.
Spirit Gum – sticks latex, gelatine and plastic.
Dow Corning 355 Medical Adhesive – This is great stuff. It sticks plastic, gelatine and latex quickly. It can also be thinned using the same thinner used to thin Tipp-ex (trichlorotrifluoroethane – good job I didn’t have to attempt to pronounce this!).
Some of these adhesives are only necessary for the application of prosthesis and bigger jobs. If want to explore fantasy make-up or special effects however it’s worth making sure that you have something in your kit to stick anything!
When working as a make-up artist there may be a time you that you require some fake blood. You can of course buy it but you can also make your own very easily.
Once you have the ingredients in your cupboard you can whip up a batch on demand.
- Red food dye
- 62g gelatine
- 57ml water
- 62g glycerine
Mix the ingredients in the saucepan and gently heat until the ingredients
1. Heart – this face has a narrow jaw, is wide at cheekbones/and or forehead
2. Square – this face is usually as wide as it is long
3. Round – this face is generally as wide as it is long
4. Diamond – this face is widest at the cheekbones, narrow forehead, jaw line of approximately equal widths
5. Oblong – this face is longer than it is wide
6. Oval – this face’s length is equal to one and a half times its width
You can also measure your face to figure out your face shape.
Here are a few tips to help soften a sqaure face. Celebrities with a square face include Kate Bosworth, Paris Hilton, Demi Moore, Carmen Electra, Angelina Jolie, Jessica Simpson, Jessica Biel.
- Concentrate the blush on the roundest parts of you cheeks.
- Apply a matte shader under your cheekbones to contour
- Shade the square ‘edges’ of the face; square points of forehead, chin or jaw to soften the face. You are applying shader to make the harsher edges recede.
- Dust highlighter down down the bridge of the nose, along cheekbones and tip of the chin.
Click here to see how to slim a round face.
I was cleaning my brushes this morning and I found myself wondering if I had to pick a favourite brush what would it be.
The MAC 187 Duo Fibre brush wins hands down. Sure there are other brushes in my collection that are essentials and much more necessary than this one. But this really is my favourite, even if it’s not a staple.
This brush makes foundation application flawless. When used properly it can leave the skin looking airbrushed.
The brush is made from 2 different fibres of different lengths. The white bristles seem quite porous so using this brush to apply foundation directly to the face is not ideal as it gobbles up a lot of product. The flawless effect comes from the blending.
I like to apply my foundation sloppily with my fingers and then blend with this brush. My foundation has never looked so close to natural skin. I am a happy girl!
It can be use a brush like this with any foundation type. The downside is that it is expensive but I am happy to report that I love my Sigma SS187 just as much and it costs a fraction of the price.
What’s your favourite brush?
Most people I come across use liquid foundation. I get so many questions about what foundations to use for a particular skin type. I thought I would post a little information about the types available to help those of you who are new to make-up choose the right one for you.
Many women (myself included) choose foundations based on friends recommendations. That can work out fine but more often then not you won’t get the same finish your friend got. You have to consider your own skin type and your suitability to the product. For this reason most of us are on a quest for the the Holy Grail foundation. In reality what is holy grail for you, may not be for the next girl.
When we delve in to foundations it’s clear why finding the perfect one is such a long journey of trial and error.
There are 3 things to consider 1.The type of foundation 2. The Coverage and 3. The Finish
These can be oil or water based. It is important to check which and factor in your skin type. If you have oily skin and you choose an oil based foundation, chances are you’ll end up with a shiny face a few hours in, or even have no make-up left.
If you have dry skin and you choose a water based foundation it could be too drying leaving a caked on look. If you have normal skin you will probably get away with either but you’ll probably have to experiment to find one that’s perfect.
- Matte: Zero shine
- Luminous: glowing, shimmery
- Satin/Velvet: Semi-matte finish
- Invisible: For very clear skin. Less than 50% pigment
- Sheer: Light coverage for skin that has a few tiny flaws
- Medium: Covers around 60%
- Full: Bad acne, scars,birthmarks etc Can look very heavy.No need to use all over
No wonder it’s taking us so long to find ‘the one’. When I am considering a foundation purchase I factor in type, coverage and finish. If they tick the 3 boxes I am a happy woman.
Ok so spots aren’t what you dream of for your big day but sometimes they are a reality. Stress and diets reek havoc on the skin.
To conceal blemishes you will need a dryer, solid concealer in your makeup arsenal. You don’t want the spot to look cakey but if the concealer is too moist it will just slide off. Dryer concealers will stay put.
Here is a list of the different types of foundations used by Make-up artists and what they are used for:
Liquid: Used when trying to achieve a natural look. Perfect for young or clear skin. Usually applied with a foundation brush, stippling brush or damp make-up sponge. Professional liquid foundations are best.
Cream: Use for more coverage or on older skins. Use a very light touch.
Tint: Used often on mens skin or very clear skin.
Panstick: Used for theatre work. They are grease based so they need to be set with powder. It’s best to buy them in a palette to have a variety of shades.
Camouflage: Used to cover scars, acne etc
Pancake: Used when trying to create flat make-up. It’s usually used on the body or fantasy work. They are water based, dry quickly and doesn’t rub off on clothing. It is applied with a damp sponge.
There will be more from my Make-up Artist Series tomorrow.